Transylvania, a region often synonymous with spooky castles and vampire lore, offers a captivating adventure beyond its haunted reputation. This family trip to the Gurghiu mountains in Transylvania's Eastern Carpathians showcases the region's untamed beauty and rich cultural heritage. The journey begins with a taste of local cuisine, as the author and their family indulge in freshly caught trout, cooked over an open fire in the mountains. Samir Teslovan, a local guide, emphasizes the area's wildness and the sense of freedom it provides. The dense forests, home to bears, wolves, and lynx, offer a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
The region's history is a fascinating blend of cultures. Once part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, it became Romanian territory after World War I. The local population, predominantly Hungarian-descended (around 85%), identifies as Székelys, a distinct cultural group. This cultural influence is evident in the region's cuisine, architecture, and traditions, such as the ornate székelykapu wooden gates and the delicious goulash and kürtőskalács (chimney cakes).
The adventure continues as the family explores various destinations. They stay at Organicle Lodge, a cozy cabin nestled in the woods, offering a peaceful retreat. The nearby Lacul Sfânta Ana, a volcanic lake, provides a unique experience, with its peat bog and boat trips. The region's high bear population density is a highlight, with sightings at Medveles Székelyföld observatory and during a drive to the lake. The family also visits Vila Adela, near Lacu Roșu, a whimsical retreat with fairy houses and a vibrant garden.
The journey takes an adventurous turn as they drive through the Bicaz Gorge and explore Lázár Castle. The Gurghiu mountains offer a serene hiking experience, with a campfire and homemade delicacies. The family's final stop is Turul Guesthouse, featuring hot tubs and a unique park with models of Transylvanian landmarks. The trip culminates in a hike to Harghita Mădăraș, the highest peak in the region, despite the rain and thunder.
The author reflects on the trip's impact, emphasizing the feeling of freedom and connection with nature. The region's authenticity, uncrowded landscapes, and cultural richness make it a hidden gem for travelers seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure. Transylvania's natural beauty and historical significance leave a lasting impression, offering a unique blend of excitement and tranquility.
